Christmas Traditions in the Netherlands

Our adventure today was finding an English speaking Catholic Church! We attended mass at the Parish of the Blessed Trinity a few miles from our apartment. It was much smaller than what we're used to at St. Agatha's, St. Elizabeth's, or Our Lady of Grace but you couldn't deny their strong sense of community.

Since arriving in the Netherlands, Connor and I have had a great time, but a lot of things have been unfamiliar. Everywhere we go we hear the Dutch language or see it in ads. We take a bus ride or walk down the street and we can't read the signs (and can't use google maps because we don't have service!) While everyone has been nice and friendly, everything has been foreign to us, from tipping policies to fashion to labels at the grocery store.  But today was different. After we took our seats, sort of hidden in the last pew, not wanting to intrude or to offend anyone unintentionally, the music started. For the first time we felt something familiar! The words hadn't started yet but we both knew the hymn immediately. It was comforting to finally know the right responses and be some place that reminded us of home.

So unfortunately for us, we missed the major Christmas celebrations here. You're about to experience an overload of "fun facts with Lauren" so get ready (or just scroll past the rest of this!) Sinterklaas, who is based off of Saint Nicholas, is celebrated with gift giving on December 5th, the night before Saint Nicholas Day, and on the morning of December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day itself.

Sinterklaas is described as, "an elderly, stately and serious man with white hair and a long, full beard. He wears a long red cape or chasuble over a traditional white bishop's alb. He holds a gold-colored crosier, a long ceremonial shepherd's staff with a fancy curled top." He traditionally rides a white horse names Amerigo.  Sinterklaas carries a big, red book called The Book of Sinterklaas, in which is written whether each child has been good or naughty in the past year. So he is very similar to Santa Claus with which we are familiar!

Sinterklaas is often portrayed with controversial companions.  Instead of the elves that we are used to, he has helpers called Zwarte Piet (plural Zwarte Pieten) who are usually portrayed by a man in blackface with black curly hair, dressed up like a 17th-century page in colorful attire, often sporting a lace collar and a feathered cap. Traditionally Zwarte Piet's face is said to be black because he is a Moor from Spain. Today, some prefer to say that his face is blackened with soot because he has to climb through chimneys to deliver gifts for Sinterklaas.

Naturally, Zwarte Piet is considered by some to be racist. Because of this, the traditions surrounding the holiday of Sinterklaas have been the subject of numerous editorials, debates, documentaries, protests and even violent clashes at festivals. Nevertheless, both Zwarte Piet and the holiday remain popular in the Netherlands. In a 2013 survey, 92% of the Dutch public did not perceive Zwarte Piet as racist or associate him with slavery, and 91% were opposed to altering the character's appearance. When I read this, all I could think of was the episode of The Office where Dwight has Nate dress up like this too, but recognizes that it probably wasn't the best idea! (Season 9 episode 9)

We were talking to a man we met a few nights ago and he was telling us how typically before December 5th, you pick a name out of a hat and then have to buy them an anonymous gift, similar to Secret Santa. However, when you wrap it up, you must disguise in the most elaborate way possible, such as using paper mache to make it look like something totally different. You also must come up with a clever rhyme or song that goes along with it and incorporates Saint Nicholas in some way.

We're hoping to start our own Christmas traditions this year, but we would love any video chats from family and friends from home!